Some wild things occurred in sustainable fashion this past month: SHEIN bought Everlane, and Patagonia’s lawsuit against environmentalist drag queen Pattie Gonia has escalated. In less surprising news, SHEIN is being called out again for alleged design theft. Scroll on to read all this and more of our editors’ top news picks.
Milan Fashion Week Says It Will “Invite” Brands Not to Show Fur (Fashion Network)
After sustained pressure from animal rights organisations and industry figures, the organiser of Milan Fashion Week, the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI), put out a statement in May asking brands not to show fur on the runway. It stopped short of issuing a mandate, saying: “CNMI believes that the most effective approach does not consist in imposing bans… but in issuing a request not to present, during the Milan Fashion Week shows, clothing, accessories, or any other item made of fur.”
Fast-Fashion Brand SHEIN Accused of Stealing Designs From Winnipeg-Based Indigenous Company (CBC)
CBC reports on yet another case of SHEIN allegedly ripping off designs from a small brand. This time, it’s Indigenous Nations Apparel Company (INAC), a Winnipeg-based Indigenous clothing company, whose founder’s daughter is even pictured in one of the designs found on SHEIN’s website. The ultra fast fashion retailer took the products down and blamed third-party sellers for the issue in an email to CBC.
From Wheat Straw to Wardrobes: New Report Highlights Fibre Breakthrough in the Fashion Industry (Canopy)
A new report and pilot by Canopy has found that wheat straw could be a viable alternative to wood pulp in Lyocell and viscose, which contributes to deforestation. The research brought together nonprofits, major fashion brands, manufacturers, suppliers, and a tech provider to test a production model across every stage of the supply chain, with the aim of identifying and addressing some of the issues that prevent new material startups from scaling. “By diversifying feedstocks beyond forests, we have a real opportunity to build a more resilient, circular, and low-impact textile industry,” Canopy founder Nicole Rycroft says.
Fashion’s Secret Pricing: Workers Suffer as Brands Defy Inflation for Decades (Public Eye)
A joint report issued by Public Eye and Clean Clothes Campaign details fashion brands’ continued squeezing of their suppliers on garment unit prices. The research shows that when adjusted for inflation, fashion brands source T-shirts at less than half the price they cost 25 years ago, and that many brands have not adjusted their pricing for inflation. Kalpona Akter, president of the Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, said in a press release: “The fashion brands which brag about human rights policies actively contribute to the continuation of poverty wages by their downward pricing policy. Higher prices are needed for living wages, safe workplaces, and sustainable production.”
Temu Fined $232 Million for Breaching EU Rules on Sale of Illegal Products (Reuters)
The European Commission has fined ultra fast fashion retailer Temu €200m ($232m USD) for failing to identify and manage the risk of illegal products being sold on its platform and the harm to consumers in the European Union. It’s part of an ongoing investigation under the EU’s Digital Services Act, which could yield more penalties in the coming months as regulators assess whether the platform is addictive, its researchers’ access to data, and other issues, according to Reuters.
Patagonia Sues Drag Queen Pattie Gonia For Trademark Infringement (The Guardian)
Patagonia is bringing a trademark lawsuit against Pattie Gonia, an environmentalist drag queen who has raised millions of dollars for environmental non-profits. The outdoor brand, which, as The Guardian points out, takes its name from the geographical region spanning Argentina and Chile, claims Pattie Gonia’s branding and merchandise would “irreparably harm” Patagonia’s brand. The lawsuit is for a “nominal” $1, but also includes Patagonia’s legal fees, which will likely be much higher.
Everlane Is Selling Out… to SHEIN (Puck)
Everlane, a brand that’s known for having been founded on so-called “radical transparency” and sustainability credentials, is being acquired by ultra fast fashion retailer SHEIN for $100m, according to Puck. The deal comes after years of Everlane struggling. Days later, Everlane’s founder Michael Preysman, who said he had no prior knowledge of the acquisition, announced the launch of a new brand, Still Radical, in a nod to the original principles.
Primark and H&M Group Among Retailers Pressing Governments on Circular Economy Policies (Drapers)
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation has issued a statement calling on governments to support circular fashion economy infrastructures such as repair and resale, including reduced taxes on circular initiatives and for Extended Producer Responsibility to cover the costs of the infrastructure to collect and sort clothing at scale. More than 70 brands have signed, according to Drapers, including Primark, H&M Group, Nobody’s Child, Stella McCartney, and Reformation.
Heat Exhaustion Hits Bangladesh Garment Workers Amid Power Cuts (Fashion Network)
Fashion Network and Reuters report on the latest impact of the US-Iran war on garment workers: As temperatures reach 37 Celsius (98.6 Fahrenheit) in Dhaka, Bangladesh, some factories cannot afford to run cooling equipment during power outages caused by a shortage of energy that is usually imported from the Middle East. Kalpona Akter, executive director of the Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity, said the heat was making workers unwell.
‘Good’ and ‘Great’ news
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MUD Jeans Launches Resale
“Great”-rated label MUD Jeans has launched a resale platform, Re Loved, with some prices 70% off the original cost. The offering spans menswear and womenswear and comes from private sellers (ie those who originally bought the item) and the brand’s own archive, with all listings verified by a member of its team.
No Nasties Creates 100% GOTS Certified Cotton Knit Collection
“Great” brand has issued a new knit collection made entirely from cotton, eschewing the Lycra and synthetic blends sometimes favoured for summer knits. The garments are all GOTS certified and made in India.
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