Read the industry’s reactions to Zara x John Galliano, find out how the Strait of Hormuz closure is affecting garment workers, and see which beauty brands are being held to account in this month’s news round-up.
Uproar Over Zara and Galliano: ‘This is a Power Move From Inditex’ (FashionUnited)
After the announcement of John Galliano’s collaboration with Zara that will see the fast fashion retailer’s “archive” reinvented, Anna Roos van Wijngaarden analyses the industry’s responses. They range from questioning whether Zara even has an archive, having allegedly lifted so many designs from other brands, to noting the different impacts it’ll have on both Galliano and Zara’s reputations.
Concerns Raised as Disruption From US-Israel Attacks on Iran Predicted to Severely Impact Global Supply Chains (Business and Human Rights Centre)
Since the start of the US-Israel-Iran war, the Business and Human Rights Centre has been tracking its impacts on supply chains and workers, noting that shipment delays due to the Strait of Hormuz closure are leading to “fears of factory closures, unpaid wages, and the ‘burden of the additional cost’ that may be placed on suppliers and workers.”
SHEIN Wants Brands to Use Its Supply Chain. Should They? (Business of Fashion)
Shayeza Walid’s exclusive report in Business of Fashion explores how SHEIN is opening up its “on-demand” supply chain infrastructure to other brands for manufacturing. But with it, Walid says, comes the reputational risk of associating with the ultra fast fashion retailer and contributing to even faster acceleration of the fast fashion system.
What If Natural Fibers Don’t Biodegrade? (Vogue Business)
Following a new report co-authored by Fashion Revolution co-founder Carry Somers, journalist Sophie Benson reports on an increasingly prevalent question in the industry about the staying power of natural fibres in certain conditions. Benson looks at what biodegradation actually means, and how the conversation compares to the narrative around synthetic fabrics’ persistence in the environment.
Marks & Spencer Launches Monthly Capsule Programme to Speed Up Time To Market (Fashionunited)
In a move that aligns it closer with the ultra fast fashion business model, Marks & Spencer has implemented a monthly product drop model to reduce the amount of time it takes to design and deliver clothing to the shop floor, moving the turnaround to just two weeks. The retailer says it will offer “more frequent newness and greater trend credibility”, according to a report on FashionUnited.
Seaweed Dye Start-up Raises £200,000 (EcoTextile News)
Scottish dye company SeaDyes has raised £200,000 to scale its work creating seaweed dyes, which could provide an alternative to synthetic options, according to EcoTextile News.
H&M, EY Call on CFOs to Finance Fashion Supply Chain Decarbonisation (ESG News)
H&M has partnered with EY to produce a new industry whitepaper calling on the fashion industry to increase its collaboration and funding to decarbonise supply chains. The paper also notes that brands must see decarbonisation as a financial strategy that reduces climate-related business risks and helps align with global targets, rather than it being simply a “nice to have” feature of a sustainability strategy.
Young Fashion Fans Help UK Charity Shops Thrive on Struggling UK High Streets (The Guardian)
The Guardian reports that the growing interest in online secondhand resale is having a positive impact on the UK’s bricks-and-mortar charity shops, with profits increasing last year. This after tough times competing with such digital platforms and being overwhelmed with low value ultra fast fashion garments. Experts warn there are still challenges but the sector has an opportunity to reshape.
French Court Holds Yves Rocher Accountable for Workers’ Rights Violations in Türkiye (Industriall Union)
Industraill Union reports on a ruling in France that found cosmetics company Yves Rocher failed to comply with a law obliging companies in the region to identify and prevent human rights violations in their global operations. The case relates to labour violations in the company’s Turkish subsidiary.
Italy Investigates Sephora Over Marketing Cosmetics to Children (Reuters)
The Italian Competition Authority is investigating Sephora and Benefit for prematurely marketing adult cosmetics and skincare to children using very young micro-influencers on social media, according to Reuters. The regulator says such practices are contributing to “compulsive purchasing of face masks, serums and anti-ageing creams, behaviours it linked to ‘cosmeticorexia’—an unhealthy fixation with skincare among minors.”
‘Good’ and ‘Great’ news
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Lefrik (‘Great’) Partners with Seven Clean Seas
More sustainable bags brand Lefrik has announced its latest charity partnership with Seven Clean Seas, an organisation that builds plastic pollution prevention programmes. For every Lefrik product sold (many of which are made from recycled plastic), the brand will allocate resources to support plastic collection efforts in Indonesia, which it says helps to link its design principles and production with environmental action.
DAWN Denim, Shop Like You Give a Damn, and Cotton Diaries Chat About the Fibre in New Podcast Episode
DAWN Denim (“Great”) and more sustainable retailer Shop Like You Give a Damn have partnered with organisation Cotton Diaries for a fascinating new podcast episode that dives into the myths about the fibre, plus what regenerative cotton farming really means.
Kuyichi Celebrates 25th Anniversary by Launching 25-Part Blog Series
“Great” denim brand Kuyichi celebrates 25 years in business, and to mark the occasion, it’s putting out a series of 25 blog posts detailing its history and much more. The first one focuses on the brand’s inspiring beginnings: “Long before sustainable fashion became a movement, [Kuyichi] was simply a response to a reality we could not accept,” it says.
‘Great’ Denim Brand Triarchy Launches Investment Drive
Highly rated denim brand Triarchy has launched an investment drive with FrontFundr to secure financial security for the next 12 months, which will help fund more sustainable production options such as digitally dyed denim and next-generation materials.
Armedangels Launches Wind-Resistant Outerwear With TENCEL Lyocell
Technical outwear is often treated with harmful chemicals or plastic coatings to achieve qualities such as wind-resistance, but “Great” brand Armedangels has just launched a new wind-resistant line of jackets made using TENCEL Lyocell, a lower impact fibre. “Wind protection comes from the fabric itself, not from an added membrane. The material is permanently compacted using heat and pressure, increasing its density. This process provides up to 97% wind resistance while maintaining breathability,” the brand explains.
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