It’s been a big month in sustainable fashion: from PETA protesters at Fashion Month to new EU regulations and a report on the dire state of living wages for garment workers. It’s not all bad though, as Mud Jeans is coming back from bankruptcy. Scroll on to get this month’s key insights.
US fashion CEO resigns after physically restraining animal rights activists (The Guardian)
Following New York Fashion Week’s biggest viral moment in which CFDA CEO Steven Kolb physically restrained a protester from PETA, the executive has resigned. PETA has staged a series of protests over H&M Group’s use of wool after an investigation found animal welfare abuses at farms said to supply to the company.
World’s largest fashion brands failing to deliver on living wage promises (Clean Clothes Campaign)
On the occasion of Living Wage Action Day, Clean Clothes Campaign has released the seventh edition of its living wage monitoring project, Fashion Checker. The latest report finds that while some brands are committing to paying living wages, only a small percentage of them are actually disclosing progress towards that goal. And regional surveys of garment workers show there are still big gaps between actual wages and living wages, with workers earning 74% less than a living wage in Pakistan.
What do the EU’s new greenwashing rules mean for fashion? (Vogue Business)
The EU’s new greenwashing legislation became effective on 27th September, and for Vogue Business, Megan Doyle breaks down the key points. The new “EmpCo” rules include a ban on unsubstantiated sustainability terms such as “green”, “eco-friendly”, and more.
SHEIN quarterly profit falls 67% as costs jump, Europe sales slump (Reuters)
SHEIN’s profits and sales have fallen due to a number of factors including freight costs and changes to import duties. Reuters reports that the retailer is planning to offer higher priced brands to plug the gap.
Oxford report reveals fashion industry influences nearly a third of global farmland (Fashion United)
A new report from the University of Oxford’s Smith School of Enterprise and the Environment and DIRT Charity has expanded on traditional assessments of fashion’s influence over global land management to find that it could cover nearly 30% of the Earth’s farmland. The assessment previously focused on crops, but now encompasses the impact of animal-derived materials like wool and leather. The report also moves closer to filling the gap of environmental analysis of next-generation alternative materials by covering the likes of mycelium leather.
US lawmaker introduces ‘first-of-its-kind’ textile waste bill (Just Style)
Just Style reports on US Congresswoman Chellie Pingree’s introduction of a bill that would reduce textile waste, improve data collection and help advance circularity in the textile industry on a national level.
Fashion’s climate déjà vu (Business of Fashion)
Business of Fashion’s Shayeza Walid shares observations from New York Climate Week, noting that the headlines were less about actual climate achievements and more about the launch of “yet another industry sustainability coalition.”
Mud Jeans is back with new owners (WWD)
The high-rated more sustainable denim brand Mud Jeans filed for bankruptcy back in August, but as WWD reports, it now has new shareholders looking to revive it. According to the report, the brand will continue to champion circularity as it prioritises smaller production runs, a greater focus on e-commerce, and a more targeted range.
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Another Tomorrow begins five-month residency in Galeries Lafayette
Another Tomorrow (“Good”) has partnered with architect Patricia Urquiola to create a pop-up in Paris’ Galeries Lafayette department store. The “shop-in-shop” features a recyclable installation fabricated by regenerated building materials manufacturer Cimento, using mineral waste reclaimed from quarry extraction combined with repurposed organic matter. There’s also sustainably sourced wood and mannequins made from bioresin.
SCATHED (‘Good’) debuts at New York Fashion Week
Top-rated brand SCATHED made its debut at New York Fashion Week in September with a collection of its signature gothic styles. Its founder, Aza Lethe said on Instagram, “I started SCATHED believing there is a space for luxury dark fashion out there, and am grateful beyond words for the support we’ve received so far in our journey.”
PANGAIA launches activewear made from biobased material
“Good” brand PANGAIA has created a new activewear collection using EVO by Fulgar, a next-generation material that is 100% bio-based and uses feedstocks like castor beans and industrial corn. Its properties include a lightweight handle, thermoregulation, and breathability. PANGAIA says it dries faster than traditional nylon and weighs less than polyester—both materials that are commonly used in activewear.
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